How can I increase the power of my electric bike?
There are many quick, easy, and cheap ways to boost the speed and power of an ebike. Ebike power can be boosted by simply turning a ‘pot’ screw, disconnecting the power smoother plug or simply fitting a higher voltage battery. Alternatively, on high spec ebikes where battery and controller are inaccessible, you can fit performance chips.
It is far easier to boost the speed of an ebike than it is to improve the power of gas powered engine. We step through ebike tuning options one by one starting with the simplest and cheapest ways to increase the power of your electric bike.
Ebike hacks
1. Remove power smoothing
Poor travel distance is a major limiting factor to the sale of electric bicycles. Many ebike manufacturers include power smoothing circuits in their controllers. Power smoothing extends the range of the battery by managing the delivery of power to the electric motor when under load.
Ebike motors draw more power when the bicycle is pulling away from a standing start. The power smoothing circuit reduces the power that is supplied to the engine when pulling away from the sidewalk. This electric circuit limits the amount of throttle that can be applied on take off to reduce the current draw from the battery.
Although power smoothing extends distance that the ebike can travel, it severely reduces the power available to the rider. Personally, I find these circuits very frustrating as I prefer to have the electric motor to provide most power when I first start riding.
The good news is that this circuit can be quickly identified and easily disabled. All that is required is to disconnect a plug.
First, unscrew the controller housing to access your controller unit. Remove the controller unit from the housing so that you can inspect all the wires. Look for a single wire from the controller that loops back into the unit. Most controllers have this wire looped back through a connector which can be easily unplugged. If you have a wire that loops back into the controller, this will be the power smoothing circuit.
To boost power, simply unplug the connectors. If extended travel is more important to you, make sure the plugs are connected.
Uncouple the power smoothing connector
When the wire is disconnected, replace the controller in its housing and take the bike for a ride. You will notice a marked improvement in acceleration. Travel distance will, of course, be reduced by a few miles.
More power means more heat
I would like to point out that if you increase the power supplied by the controller, you increase the heat of the unit. Although adjusting the pot or removing power smoothing will not exceed electrical tolerance of the components, heat dissipation is a major factor in reliability.
Experience has shown that the controller is the Achilles heal of ebikes. You should, therefore, seek additional methods to cool the controller and motor.
Ensure good air flow around the systems and, if possible, attach additional heat sinks.
2. Increasing power to an electric motor is as simple as turning a screw
Power to the electric motor is supplied by the controller. Most ebike controllers have a variable potentiometer, or ‘pot’ that is used to adjust the power supplied by the controller.
External 'power POT'
Some controllers have an easily accessible pot outside the controller casing. Check your controller for a wire extending on the outside of the controller unit that terminates with a screw head rather than a connector. This will be the pot.
Internal 'power POT'
In most units, there the pot is not visible outside the controller but is available on the circuit board inside. If you have no external pot, you will have to open the controller casing to look for the component with a small adjuster screw. The pot can be identified easily as it will be the only electronic part with a screw head.
Simply turn up the power
The direction of turn the pot screw for increased power varies with each model of controller. You may have to turn the pot screw either clockwise or anti-clockwise to increase power. The power increase requires a little bit of trial and error. Turn the screw ¼ turn clockwise, reassemble the controller and take your ebike for a ride. Hopefully, more power will be available. If not, try turning the pot back ½ a turn and try again.
3. Can I put a bigger battery on my ebike?
Increasing battery voltage is the most effective way of increasing the power of your ebike. Increasing the battery voltage increases the power exponentially. You can increase the power of your ebike by adding a small additional “booster” battery or swap out your battery pack for a higher voltage battery. Before you upgrade your battery, there are a few things you should be aware of:
The first misconception is that a bigger battery will increase power. To be clear, battery power is rated in Ampere Hours (AH) for a specific Voltage. For 250 Watt ebikes, a 36 Volt 8AH battery is typically supplied on low cost bikes and a 36 Volt, 12AH battery is provided on more expensive models. Higher battery ratings are available but not common due to their weight and cost.
When you swap for a higher voltage battery, it can supply more power to the motor and provide significant increase in speed and acceleration. A more powerful battery (larger AH rating of the same voltage) will extend the range of ebike travel but will supply an insignificant amount of additional power to the motor.
Electric bike power calculator
For a given load, the resistance of an electric motor does not vary wildly. Simplifying the technicalities of an electric motor, we can view it as a large resistor. Ohms law, from high school physics, tells us that Power = Voltage2/Resistance. This means that when we double the voltage, we quadruple the power.
In reality, engine resistivity does increase slightly as more load is applied (more acceleration or speed = greater load) and a fully charged battery is around 25% higher than the rated voltage.
In real world applications, a 36 Volt 250 watt controller will supply around 350 Watts when a 48 volt battery is connected.
How to connect a booster battery
If you have a Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) battery pack, it is straight forward to add a power booster battery. 12 Volt SLA batteries are readily available and additional 12Volt units should be connected in series to increase the voltage.
Refer to the diagram as a visual guide of how to connect the batteries.
Although the same concept applies to Li-ION batteries, adding power booster batteries to Li-ION is not recommended. The problem with Li-ION battery packs is that they are made by connecting a multitude of smaller power cells. Li-ION batteries can be damaged easily or alternatively, present a fire hazard. Li-ION batteries are, therefore, fitted with protective management systems that ensure that the batteries are not over charged and are protected from being drained of charge. Managing Li-ION battery charging reduces fire hazard while limiting battery drain extends battery life.
Adding a booster pack to Li-ION would complicate the system, compromise the management circuitry, and risk the integrity of the original battery pack. With Li-ION batteries you should replace the entire battery pack or, change the power management system if you are adding additional battery cells.
Verify that the controller can cope
There are a few items that you should check before you connect a higher voltage battery to your bicycle motor.
1. First, you should be aware that using a higher voltage battery will negate any warranty that you may have with the electric motor kit or ebike.
2. It is essential that you verify the power rating of the controller on your ebike. Most controllers are rated for one step up in voltage. For example, 36 Volt controllers are usually rated to run on 48 volts and 48 volt systems to run on 56 volt batteries, however, this is not always the case.
If your controller is not rated to accept a higher voltage battery, then you risk burning out the controller very quickly.
Checking the controller rating
Controller voltage and power ratings are usually marked in an obvious location. Typically, specs are listed on the side or the back of the casing. If manufacturers fail to provide any specs on the casing, look for the model number of the controller. A Google search on the model number should provide the required information.
Increasing ebike power
Most controllers automatically adjust to one step up in battery voltage. For example, a 36 Volt, 250 Watt ebike will automatically become a 350 Watt system when a 48 volt battery is attached.
Multi voltage controllers
If the controller is rated for multiple battery voltages (e.g. 36, 48, 56 and 72 Volts), these systems often have manual switch on the outside of the controller casing in order to manually set the battery voltage.
As controllers are the most fragile component of electric bikes, it is essential that the battery voltage remains within the rated limits of the system. Also, if you increase the power output the bicycle engine, it will increase the heat in the motor winding’s and the supply wires. The additional heat places more strain on the electric motor.
Can bicycle motors accept more power?
Electric motors themselves cope with the additional power well. We have never had any major issue with stepping up from 36 to 48 volt systems. Wherever possible, we improve air circulation and fit additional heat sinks to help the reliability of the ebike motor.
We have rarely encountered any issues with putting extra power through the electric motor itself. We have, however, seen many cases where a voltage upgrade has produced sufficient heat to melt the power wires supplying the engine.
To assist with heat dissipation, we always try to increase air flow around the controller, power wires and motor. If heat sinks can be added to electric components, this also helps to increase the reliability of the bicycle motor. In the occasions that we have discovered wires with melted insulation, we strip the controller back and solder higher rated wire to the power lines.
Check electrical connectors regularly. It is important to ensure that the connectors between the electric motor and the controller are kept clean, free from corrosion, and have good contact area. Similarly, check the power cables leading from the battery to the controller. Poor contacts increase resistance which reduces power supply. More important than the small loss of power is the additional heat produced in the connectors.
Long trips
We would also suggest that you be mindful when taking long trips. If you are planning a long journey, back off the throttle a little or stop for short periods to allow the electrics to cool down.
Higher rated controller for bicycle motor kits
If the controller on your ebike conversion kit is not rated for higher voltage then it is possible to purchase a more powerful unit. Controllers can be purchased on Amazon for around $70 and can be simply fitted in 2 minutes using the same connectors.
There is a huge selection of up-rated to choose from. Finding a replacement controller for a bicycle motor kit is relatively straight forward as most of the fundamental connectors are standardized. The throttle interface is usually the only non standard part. Depending on the throttle design, these connectors can be as simple as 3 wire plugs but we have seen throttle’s as complex at 6 wire plug plus a 2 wire side coupling. Be careful to select the correct throttle connector when you are purchasing a replacement controller.
Higher rated ebike controllers
It can be complicated to swap for a higher rated controller on an ebike. Purpose built ebikes have a number of additional wires to service proprietary features. Ebikes often have ignition switches, lights, speedometers, battery level indicators and LED displays.
These additional features have no standard couplings. Unless you want to discard all, or most, of the additional features on your electric bike, you are locked into the manufacturer. Check with your ebike manufacturer to ask if they can supply a higher rated controller that is compatible with your model of ebike.
can i put 52v 17ah or more ah as my ebike is 48v 17ahbattery 1000w motor
Be aware that a 48 volt battery will present over 52 volts when fully charged. To use a higher voltage battery, you will need to ensure the controller is rated for the increased voltage. (The controller is usually the weak point in electric bikes). Most controllers are, however, built with a 25%+ margin, so should be OK if you want to push the controller a little, you will have to increase cooling. (Note: there is always a risk if you push beyond the manufacturer’s rated specifications, you risk destroying the system).
Assuming the controller is rated for higher voltage, you will likely encounter heat issues. Adding heat sinks to the controller and wiring, and improving ventilation, are crucial for heat dissipation. Alternatively, you could keep journeys short.
If you install the higher voltage battery, use it in short spurts initially and check how hot the controller and wires are becoming. I have seen a lot of melted high-rated wire.
Hi Finch, Check the rating on your controller. You will most likely be good with up-rating to 52 Volt as long as the controller is rated for this.
I would also advise caution on long runs as power wires to the motor will be pushing a lot more power through. Temperature will ramp up quickly in the wires. Try a short run and feel how hot the power wires to the motor are. If they are cool then that will give confidence to push a little further and harder.
Be cautious until you have confidence that the wires to the motor are not going to melt.
I have read that the number of hall wires are usually 5. But then sometimes there is a 6th wire. A white wire. And it is a speed sensor to control the speed of the bike. Or .. ???
Could you please help me with this?
Hi An,
Unfortunately, there is no standardization for throttle wires. Different manufacturers use different colors. Most manufacturers do, however, use three colors for the throttle control blue, red and white.
It isn’t a hard and fast rule, but these three colors normally operate the throttle control. Additional wires are usually for accessories such as speedometer, battery level, switch connections, illumination.
Dependant on your bike, pedal sensors serve different functions. The pedal sensors on mid drive motors can be complex. On mid drive motors, the sensors allow differing power assist dependant on pedal force, pedal speed, incline of the terrain, etc. There isn’t a lot that can be done with these sensors as they are integrated into the motor electronics.
Pedal sensors for hub motors are usually far more straightforward. The pedal sensor monitors the riders pedal speed and is simply to provide Pedelec compliance. The sensor allows power to be supplied to the hub motor. If you have a throttle control, you shold be able to disconnect the pedal sensor.
The sensor does not limit the top speed of the e-bike (assuming you can pedal fast enough). Speed is a limit of the design of controller and hub motor. Most brushless ebike controllers pump out a square wave pulse. As the motor speeds up, the wave pulse becomes faster (and duration of the pulse has to be shorter). Once the ebike is travelling at 25 MPH, the controller-wheel speed is maxed out. You can’t go far over 25 MPH on most hub motors unless the motor & controller pair are designed for higher speeds.
I have a tenways e bike, I want 5 kmh extra power but nobody now how, can you help?
Hi Henri,
I am not familiar with the Tenways ebike specifically but most ebike controllers have a potentiometer (some are external to the controller and others are hidden inside). Turning the potentiometer can usually add around 5 kmh. Another, higher risk, strategy is to bump up the battery voltage – If you have a 36V battery you could try using a 48V rated battery. Before you opt for a higher voltage battery, you need to check the controller rating will handle it. Most controllers can accept higher voltage batteries.
Even if the controller is rated for a higher voltage, the problem will be heat dissipation. More power will be pumping through the wiring so you may melt some cables.
The bottom line is that raising battery voltage will increase speed but don’t go their unless you are prepared for the worst.
I hope that someone with knowledge of modifying a Tenwyas ebike will add some advice here.
Thank you, I appreciate your comments and I am glad that you appreciate the work that has been put into the content and creation.
I have a trike with 3 12v 12ah and I want to change for just one lithium battery, what should I use?
Hi John, Most electric trike motors will be 36 volt or above, so I am fairly sure that your 3x12AH batteries are wired in series. Three 12 Volt batteries wired in series make a 36 Volt battery pack. If you are looking for a Lithium Ion battery pack of a similar power, then 36V, 12ah will provide an equivalent replacement.
I hope that I have understood your question correctly, if you would like more detail, there is a lot more information in my ebike battery article https://power-bicycle.com/ebike-battery/
I hope that this is helpful
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hello, i am planning on buying a new ebike but due to 2 things i may need to upgrade the motor and battery. i am a heavy dude and i live in a place with lots of hills. how should i calculate the battery specs needed for a specific motor? lets say if i get 5kw motor, what should be the battery specs? thank you.
Hi Burak. If you go halfway down this article, you will find a link to a battery distance calculator.
Best of luck
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I do not sell ebike batteries. There are companies that will re-furbish batteries (probably the cheapest and best solution). Alternatively, suppliers of generic battery packs can be found on eBay and Amazon. If you have a specialist battery, you will need to contact the retail outlet that you purchased from.
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will a cdi work on ebikes
cdi’s control the spark to 2-stroke engines. They are a different tech to ebike electrics.
What components on a controllers pcb board would need to be upgraded in order to safely increase overall speed/power output? I have a TI-30 laotie 60v38ah 11in tire scooter with two 2800watt motors the controller is rated 60v 45+-1A, it is a Chinese product. Secondly I have added solder to the shunt on both controllers although haven’t noticed any increase in performance, to be specific I added solder on the portion on the shunt that is parallel to the pcb board with none on either end of the shunt so both wires coming up off the board maybe a quarter inch along with the 90°bend are bare wire exactly how they came from factory, to see this boost in performance do I need to add additional solder so that the two wires are soldered together the entire length of the shunt? Also what might possibly help me understand what’s needed is what is the flow of electrons in a shunt?
My controller has no adjustable pot screw or any wire that loops back around that controls the power sent to the motor, although outside the controller is a pcb that is really just a junction board (is what I’m calling it) it doesn’t have any components on it, it just has most all the wires from each separate circuit running to it, ie head lights, side lights, brake lights, throttle etc all run to this board. And on the board is one wire that is maybe 8 inches long and is just a loop could this be the wire your referring to that could be disconnected for extra power ?
Hi lot of questions, sorry! The brakes are from DYISLAND and have a small plastic plate screwed to the underside of each brake handle, appears to be some sort of sensor. Do you know what I’m talking about and if so what that is ?
Also on the pcb in the controller there are what appear to be 3 miniature shunts the exact same shape just much thinner gauge wire. Would adding solder between the two wires on each mini shunt increase power?
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